Cockatoo Care

Alan K Jones BVetMed MRCVS

Cockatoo Care

Introduction

Most parrots are highly social birds, and the common Cockatoo species are no exception. They are also long-lived and intelligent and have physical and mental needs that many owners find they are unable to fulfil. So many times in my avian veterinary career I have met people who have been seduced by the cuddly, silly-tame hand-reared baby cockatoo, that almost without exception grows into a demanding, screeching, destructive and even aggressive adult. Such birds are mentally uncertain whether to be human children or parrots. Thus, it takes a particularly dedicated and committed person to take on the care of these species, while cockatoo rescue centres are overwhelmed.
Cockatoos originate from Australasia and south-east Asia. They include species popular in Aviculture, and so widespread in their native habitats as to be considered pest species, as well as several endangered and uncommon types. These parrots are distinguished by the possession of erectile crest feathers on their heads, displayed under voluntary control in response to emotions such as fear, excitement, aggression, or territorial display. Unlike all other parrot species, they have no blue or green colouration in their plumage. Broadly, there are two groups – the black cockatoos and the white cockatoos, with the pink and grey Roseate cockatoo (Galah), Gang-gang, and Major Mitchell’s being the exception.

Cockatoo Species

Black Cockatoos

Broadly speaking, these are rarely found as pet parrots but are more usually kept in captivity by specialist breeders or zoological collections. Many are endangered in the wild.

Probosciger aterrimus – The Black Palm Cockatoo. Natural environment New Guinea and Cape York, Australia. Three sub-species, large birds (60 cm) with large beaks and prominent erectile crest, red cheek patches and black plumage.

Calyptorhynchus – The Black Cockatoos, found in western and eastern Australia.

Yellow-tailed Black

White-tailed Black (Baudin’s and Carnaby’s sub-species)

Red-tailed Black

Glossy Black

The in-betweeners

Cacatua leadbeateri – the Major Mitchell’s or Leadbeater Cockatoo. Interior of Australia. Pink and white bird with distinctive crest feathers banded in red, yellow and white. Mostly for specialist breeders.

Callocephalon fimbriatum – the Gang-gang Cockatoo, again a specialist bird, confined to a small area of south-eastern Australia. Distinctive sexual dimorphism, with males having a red head and recurved crest, and white fringing to the dark grey body plumage, while females have a grey recurved crest and head, with orange-yellow fringing.

Eolophus roseicapillus – the Roseate, or Galah Cockatoo. Common to the point of pest status all over Australia, and common in aviculture and as a pet parrot. Distinctive pink and grey plumage, with many mutation varieties now bred in captivity.

White Cockatoos

Many of these are common as pet parrots, and are broadly-speaking with white body plumage, with variations in crest colour and bare eye-ring. Native habitats include Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines.

Cacatua – include Lesser and Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, with debatable sub-species and lemon-yellow crest feathers; the Citron-crested Cockatoo, with an orange crest (all these curve forwards); the Blue-eyed Cockatoo, with backward curving yellow crest. The Umbrella or White Cockatoo is all white, while the Moluccan or Salmon-crested Cockatoo is pale pink, with deeper pink/orange crest feathers. Both these birds have very prominent, impressive crests.

Smaller species with less prominent white crests, generally white plumage, and usually bare skin around the eye include – the Goffin’s Cockatoo, the Little Corella, the Long-billed Corella, the Ducorp’s Cockatoo, and the Red-vented Cockatoo.

The popular Cockatiel (Nymphicus hollandicus) is also included as a sub-family of the cockatoos, but is featured in a separate article in this series.

Indoors or outdoors?

The choice would depend primarily on whether you are planning to keep a ‘pet’ companion bird or wish to keep pairs of cockatoos for breeding. There are pros and cons to both methods, which are listed below:

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Outdoor housing

There is no doubt that parrots benefit significantly from living outdoors. Fresh air, sunlight, rainfall, enriched environment with room to fly all result in generally fitter, healthier birds. Even an indoor pet bird will benefit from some time outside, in a carry-cage or small flight. Those that live outside permanently require an aviary of sturdy construction, protected from predators, and providing shelter from inclement weather. The general layout would be a ‘three-thirds’ setup. One third of the length of the aviary is secure, sheltered housing; one third is wired flight that is covered with a roof; while the final third is wired open to the elements. This gives the birds warmth, shelter, security and a place to roost, feed or breed in safety in the ‘shed’ area. Your parrots may be shut in this section by closing access to the flight area, if you wish to reduce noise nuisance to neighbours; to carry out cleaning or maintenance in the flight; or to facilitate capture, handling and examination of the birds. While in the outside flight, they may choose to shelter under the roofed area from hot sun or heavy rain and snow, but they will enjoy the open area in fine weather or light showers.

The housing end may be of brick or block work, with a solid roof, or be built with wood. The latter would require lining with wire mesh or other parrot-proof material to resist chewing. The framework of the flight sections could also be wood (treated with bird-safe preservative), but again would require protection from the birds’ beaks, or of more robust metal construction. Prefabricated aluminium panels, incorporating mesh, are easily assembled, and will last a long time. For most cockatoos, the gauge of the mesh should be 12g, although Moluccan cockatoos may require 10g.

Adjacent aviaries, and exposed ends of aviaries should be double-wired to prevent attack between residents, or from outside predators. The quality of wire is important. Cheaper brands of galvanized wire pose a danger to your birds in the form of zinc poisoning.

A safety porch is a must to prevent birds from escaping.

Flooring: bare earth or turf will allow natural foraging or digging activity but will allow the ingestion of the eggs of intestinal parasites, and possibly ingress of rats. Paving slabs or concrete make for easy cleaning and should be laid with a slight slope to allow drainage. Shingle is a popular choice, laid over a weed-suppressing membrane. It may be raked over and hosed down for cleaning. Some keepers use chipped bark in a similar way, but this substrate may well harbour pathogenic fungal spores.

Perches: The flight should be equipped with perches, placed to enable the birds to fly the length of the flight without hindrance, but with landing areas to access food, water and the entrance to the ‘inner sanctum’. Perches may be fixed rigidly to the wire mesh of the aviary framework, or they may be suspended by chains or rope from the roof – in fact, rope suspended as a loop makes a perfectly adequate perch. Such mobile perches give the parrots more stimulation and exercise, and more closely mimic the living tree branches that parrots would use in the wild.

Indoor housing

As mentioned in the Introduction, Cockatoos are sociable, active and intelligent birds, and ideally should be kept with other parrots. They also need the largest area that can be afforded and accommodated inside the house. In some cases, bird keepers set aside a whole room for their birds, or an indoor aviary is built into an alcove. Most will be kept in cages for at least a portion of the day, but it is a legal requirement that a bird should be able to spread its wings in all directions. The selection of cage type follows many of the criteria involved with building aviaries. It should be appropriate in size, strength, and wire gauge for the species of bird and the number of occupants. It should be manoeuvrable and easily dismantled for cleaning and maintenance. Cages on wheels or castors are therefore easier to manage than those with plain legs. The bird can then be moved from room to room with its owners, or out into the garden or conservatory for a change of scenery. Ornate and fancy curlicues such as those favoured by our Victorian ancestors may look attractive but make danger points where birds may get their toes or other extremities trapped. Simple but strong construction, with ease of access to the bird, perches, and bowls are paramount. There is a plethora of styles and shapes on the market, but having selected a type appropriate to your bird, the final choice will depend on how it will fit in your home and your personal preference of colour and material. The bird’s home cage is its primary dwelling where it may be left safe and secure while the owners are out, but a second, smaller cage may be used as a spare while you clean your pet’s regular home, or it could be used for him to sleep in at night or to take out into the garden. Finally, you may also consider a travel carrier, to make transporting the parrot to the vet’s clinic or holiday boarding easier.

Cage base: The simplest and most effective lining for the tray base of the cage is old newspaper, which is cheaply and easily replaced, to dispose of waste food and droppings. Some cages have a grid above the tray, which allows waste to fall through and prevents the parrot from rummaging through it. Other potential coverings include cat litter, dried corn waste, compressed paper granules, bark chippings or sawdust, but such materials are likely to be scattered by the bird outside of the cage into the room!

Perches: Similar criteria apply here as they do to aviary perches (above). The perches supplied with most cages, of the smooth wooden dowel or broom-handle variety, or plastic tubing, may be easy to keep clean, but they are not good for birds’ feet for lifelong perching. Parrots require a variety in diameter, texture and hardness: their toes, feet and joints will be much better for it, while the ability to chew a natural wood perch will satisfy their natural instincts and provide excellent environmental enrichment. Rope may also be used, and ‘pedicure’ perches are also produced, made of a concrete-like compound with a rough sandy texture to ‘file down’ the tips of the birds’ claws. One or two of these in the cage may be used, but do not make every perch of this material, otherwise this may lead to sores and ulceration underneath the foot. Parrots may also have a play stand apart from the cage, to allow some degree of freedom (under supervision!) and socialization. This may a simple T-bar, or more complex tree forms, often made with the exceptionally hard java wood.

Food and water bowls: Essential equipment, applicable to both cage and aviary birds. These may be made of metal or plastic, and range from simple D-cups that clip on the wire of the cage and aviary, but are easily removed by parrots; through plastic or metal cups that are held in place with a clip mechanism; to a rotating or sliding mechanism allowing replacement of bowls from outside, while locking them in place once returned.

Cleaning & maintenance

‘Birds in the wild don’t have their branches scrubbed with disinfectant’ is an often-quoted comment by bird owners wishing to do less work. No, but they also do not sit on the same piece of branch day after day, with waste food and droppings accumulating around them! Native leaves and branches are washed regularly by heavy rainfall, and many microbes are killed by the ultraviolet rays in sunlight. Pet indoor birds are restricted to a comparatively small area, and we have a duty of care to prevent the build-up of dirt and potential infection. If newspaper is used on the floor of the cage, the top layer with waste may be removed daily, while once a week the whole tray and perches should be washed and disinfected with an avian-safe product, rinsed, dried and replaced. Plastic, wood or metal toys should be treated in the same way. Food and water bowls should be cleaned thoroughly every day. Aviary birds should be inspected daily, with food and water bowls cleaned and replaced, as above. Such attention may be required even more frequently in hot weather. Weekly tasks will include cleaning and replacement or repair of perches; checking for signs of vermin; and raking over or hosing down the aviary floor. Annual attention may mean the replacement or repair of nest boxes; treating woodwork with bird-safe preservative; replacing worn locks, hinges, or window-fasteners; pruning any overgrown plants outside the aviary; renewing shingle or bark on the floor; and checking the integrity of roofing materials.

Food and water

A good balanced diet is paramount for captive parrots. So many disease conditions seen by veterinarians are the result of deficient or unbalanced feeding. The ubiquitous ‘parrot mix’ of dried seeds and grains is inappropriate for long-term health and maintenance of most parrot species, and with several thousand species of these fascinating birds, indigenous to many different environments, it is unreasonable to suppose that this ‘one size fits all’ could possibly work. Cockatoos in their native habitats eat a lot of fruit and vegetable material. Farm animals, dogs, cats, rabbits and fish have for decades been supplied with formulated diets, containing all the necessary carbohydrates, fats, protein, vitamins, mineral and trace elements in suitable proportions. It is only in recent years that such diets have at last become available for parrots, and from a nutritional viewpoint, these are the optimum. However, many owners struggle with such a ‘boring’ diet, and parrots themselves are inquisitive, dextrous feeders, with exceptional colour vision (including the ultraviolet wavelengths), so eating a wider variety of food items will satisfy their natural behaviors and will help enrich their lives.
A good diet for a Cockatoo should therefore be a base of avian pellets, with the addition of fresh fruits and vegetables, listed below. If a seed-based diet is used, this should account for no more than one third of the daily intake, with the rest fruit and vegetable. It is advisable to feed the latter early in the day, when the bird is hungry, topping up with seed later, when the fresh food has been consumed. Birds vary in their individual preferences: some prefer items chopped finely, or even mashed, others like a ‘chunk’ that they can hold in their feet. Try items raw or lightly cooked – again, one form may be preferred over another. Parrots are sociable birds, so will often eat together with the rest of their ‘flock’ – which in the case of pet birds would include the human family at their mealtimes.
Fresh water should be given daily – more frequently in hot weather, or if the water becomes contaminated with food – parrots frequently dunk their food in water.

Enrichment

As already stated, parrots are highly intelligent and social birds, and if they are to be kept in captivity, it is important that their lives be made as stimulating and interesting as possible. Lack of such enrichment can result in common behavioural problems, such as Feather Destructive Behaviour (FDB), or screaming.
Aviary birds should have a variety of perching, and some made of soft woods that they can chew and destroy. Rope swings or lighter branches, that sway when they land, will mimic nature, and enhance muscular development and co-ordination. A bank of aviaries, containing other birds, is always better than a single flight holding just one or two birds.
Indoor birds should as far as is possible be given time out of their cages, on a play stand, or (if tame enough) being handled by their carer. A radio or television playing in the room is stimulating, especially when the humans are out of the house. There is now a huge market of parrot toys. These may be made from wood, metal, plastic, leather or rope. The wood is often brightly coloured, but make sure the dyes used are simple vegetable-based colourings, and non-toxic. Plastics should be hard and virtually indestructible: any that are child-safe will be fine for your bird. Metal chains, links or bells should be stainless steel, in preference to galvanized materials which would carry the risk of zinc poisoning but be aware of the possibility of beaks and toes getting caught in the links or cracks. Many manufactured toys can be quite expensive, but parrots are just as easily amused and occupied with cheaper, easily replaceable items, such as empty egg boxes or cereal cartons, lumps of soft (untreated) wood, or cardboard rolls. Favourite food items may be concealed within toys or boxes, to make the bird work for its food.
Bathing or spraying is also an essential factor in healthy parrot care. Outdoor birds will enjoy getting a soaking in the rain, but in dry weather, they will benefit from the use of a hose or water sprinkler. Indoor parrots should be wetted at least once a week, using a hand-held mist sprayer, a shower attachment, or even dunking them in a bowl of water.
Ultraviolet light is again essential for parrots to keep them 100% healthy. It is required (as with humans) for the synthesis of vitamin D in the skin, as well as allowing them full colour vision, with their wide-spectrum capability. Again, outdoor birds will obtain this from sunlight, but indoor birds should have access to natural sunlight where possible, by taking them outside in fine weather, either in a carry cage or by being harness-trained or free-flown. Otherwise, it will be necessary to provide avian-specific UVB light sources. These will need to be mounted quite close to the parrot to be beneficial, but just 20 minutes exposure daily will be sufficient for vitamin D synthesis.